How To Install Rotated Motor Mounts

Installation Tips, Tricks and Lessons Learned

We currently make four types of rotated mounts; all come with a class A voided bushing insert for durability and vibration control:

1. Aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004.

2. As above, all Steel machined and welded with class A voided bushing all LNF/LSJ.

3. Similar construction all steel with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline ONLY

4. Composite pressed and inserted with class a voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010

All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: Stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Recommended. Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the rear mount.

FUTURE PROJECT (in prototype stage): stiffer mounts for automatic cobalts, and mounts to raise the motor for extreme lowered Cobalts.

Installation Instructions

Rotated Motor Mounts

First using a jack , raise car up and position jack stands so the engine bay underneath is clear. Then position jack with block of wood under the pan, take a lite load off the motor assembly . It is very important not to allow the motor assembly to shift sideways. Please jack your car up under 4 stands. Then with the motor nicely supported, go under the hood and loosen off the 3 top passenger side mount bolts about two turns and if you are able the same for the driver side mount plate to transmission ( 3 bolts under fuse box).

Rear Mount

Triangular spacer (stage 1) or replacement mount (stage 2) install

Rotated Motor Mounts

Then remove the rear motor mount assembly. For stage 1 where the mount is not changed, undo the 3 bolts with 18 mm socket that secure the rear engine mount assembly to the transmission, and the 3 long bolts from underneath the rear mount, with a 15 mm socket and loosen but do not remove the through bolt for the mount. Be careful to not displace the heat shield.

Stage 1: place the triangular keyhole spacer underneath the rear mount and replace the three trans bolts (just start the threads) and then the 3 lower mount bolts (the long ones with a 15mm socket) start the threads.

Rotated Motor Mounts

Stage 2: remove the entire mount bracket; use a fork to remove the Christmas tree fastener for the 02 sensor to the mount before removal.

Then, replace the mount into the bracket with the new stage 2 mount and two spacers either side of the mount, insert the heat shield and through bolt, ( do not tighten completely ) then re-assemble to car.

Stage 2 does not require a spacer - it's built into the mount.

For stage 1 composite mounts F23 follow the rear stage 1 procedure above.

For 2004 Redline mounts follow the rear procedure above.

If you only have two jack stands, you can try removing and replacing the front mount (after releasing the upper pass. Side mount bolts) this may prevent the motor/transaxle assembly shifting to the passenger side due to the front being raised and rear not level with the front.

Front Mount

Rotated Motor Mounts

Now go to the front mount all mount types stage 1 and 2 except F23 and remove the two 18 mm socket head bolts that hold the front mount to the trans assembly, then the 18mm socket head through bolt for the mount. Remove the mount, and replace in position the new mount, starting the trans bolts first then the cross bolt. On alloy mounts, position the two washers one each side of the mount and replace the through bolt. Do not tighten the bolts completely.

For F23, remove the 4 bolts that hold the composite mount to the engine /trans (15mm head socket) and the 18 mm head socket through bolt. Then position the new mount start the 4 bolts and then insert the spacer each side of the mount and replace the through bolt.

For Redline 2004 and Stage 1 and 2 all steel mounts, place one spacer only to the through bolt, and replace the two 18mm socket head bolts to secure the mount to the transmission with the new socket head (10 mm allen key) bolts supplied with the mount.

Now all bolts are in position; start at the rear and torque the transmission three bolts (42 ft lbs) and the lower three bolts (37 ft lbs). Now go to the front and torque the front mount bolts to 42 ft lbs. The through bolts front are torqued to 50 ft lbs, rear to 70 ft lbs.

Now go back up to the top mount and tighten the top bolts, releasing the jack to make sure the mount has rotated forward as much as the larger holes will permit the 10mm bolts to move and retorque to 42 ft lbs. You are done.